After finally getting the Maneuver Cards done after about five years of working on them off and on I decided to get moving to the Spell Cards. Like the other cards they are a form that you can fill and print yourself. However since there are so many varieties of spells and what they are capable of doing I only made the Page field permanent. The rest of the cells can be entered by the user. The information panel looks just like the other cards but for the cover I opted for a spell book cover with each College having the same colour represented in GURPS Magic. I also added a symbol for each college.
The symbols are from Game-icons.net I’ve made a card for each college and one set of “Generic” Spell cards. Next up will be Psi cards, Path/Book, Ritual, Syntactic, Symbol, and Wild Magic. All but the Psi cards will probably have to have a different format for the information so they may take a little longer.You can view all the Spell Cards HERE
If you end up using them please send me pictures of your cards!
I’ve finally finished the bulk of the cards needed for use during GURPS combat. This has been an on again/off again project since 2012. The idea comes from the GURPS Combat cards that you can download for free from Warehouse 23. It is a great idea and very useful but I didn’t like the basic design of the cards or the limited amount of information. So I came up with my own version which you can enter your own text then print out for use during game play.
These are great for beginner or pro and if you use miniatures or counters with a hex map it turns the combat into a tactical table top war game. I’ve considered making a play mat to place the cards on, much like you see with Collectable Card Games (CCG).
As you can see from the photos above the cards are printed individually on 6×4 blank note cards. Each pdf has three different variants of the card and are a form which you fill out yourself. Once you have entered the information that you desire to have just print it out on the note card, score (crease) down the centre, glue & fold, press with a heavy object so it dries flat, then just cut the remaining card edge. I recommend a hobby knife rather than a scissors.
Two other pdf forms are in the folder, both are used for NPC’s and Monsters. One is playing card size like the Maneuver Cards but you print it on an A4/U.S. Letter size sheet of card stock. The other is also a 6×4 note card size which you can fill out and store in a standard recipe box. There is a small area where you can upload a picture unto the card as well.
Enjoy! Let me know if you use them, send me links to pictures of your cards! Any suggestions? Ideas for different play aids?
To reduce the extremely large number of tiles I’m creating I’m adding tokens around the tiles. It may use a bit more ink but it also allows you to get more out of your photo paper as well. The tokens will allow you to place stairs, traps, treasure, etc. anywhere you want on your tiles.
These three style door tokens will allow you place your doors within any area on the tiles for the wider Vertical Corridors. Carefully cut them out with a hobby knife using proper safety procedures and you can then either glue one side and fold in half on the grey dotted line or cut them in half and glue them on to thicker card. The backs of the tokens will have information on the type of door. To make this easier and more customizable for those of you using the tiles all token pdf’s will be form fillable. Which means you can enter your own data. The center token in the picture above is how they will all look with blank data fields where as the other two is a representation of how they will look with the information inserted by the user.
Test it out on this pdf for yourself! You will have to download the pdf, Google Docs won’t let you use the form features in the preview.
Because the Horizontal Corridors have to be slightly reduced in width I have created two types of door tokens for each door type. These also will have a form option on the reverse side.
Here are some of the options you can place from getting from one level to another. I manipulated the pit images in photoshop. The top one is a pit down to another corridor directly below it and the bottom one is just a deep pit. I probably should have placed a skeleton on the bottom for scale. If you fold the pit symbols on the grey lines and glue the trap door parts together then glue the bottom (pitt symbol) to a piece of thick card you can have a pit tile with a working door!
Now to make sure that the pdf’s can be used by both A4 and 8.5″x11″ I’ve placed a red rectangle on my sheet representing the size of 8.5″ by 11″. This will make sure none of the pieces will be cut off due to size. Everyone will have to print them with no margins though.
I’d be interested to know what kind of tokens people would like to see.
I’ve gotten some positive feedback from my 7″ tiles so I thought maybe I could round them out a bit more before continuing on with the 4″ battle tiles. To organise things I started to plan out some of the shapes in Adobe illustrator. Here are just some of the tiles I’ve come up with for double wide corridors (6′)
So just a few! I’ve color coded them based on how many corridor connections are available. Here is just a quick example of what could be created with these tiles.
I’ve also been cleaning up the tiles a bit by adding another layer to hide unused grids. I think it looks much cleaner with the new build.
I’ve also been working on adding a bit of dirt and grime, not to all tiles as you really need generic tiles, but just a few of them. By creating a ‘Dirt’ layer with different transparencies and edge faders it can make some tiles look really disused.
Also with Campaign Cartographer I can easily change the backgrounds to allow for different style maps.
Want to plan your dungeon? Check out my hex graph paper that I made in Illustrator.
Now this is where I’m going to get a bit cheeky. I’d like to offer these in black & White OSR style which Profantasy Software has in The Cartographer’s Annual 2015 so if you can spare the dosh and donate a couple of quid (dollars) then I’ll be able to get a few new styles and offer those up for free like I do with all my hobby designs.
I’d like to share the 7 inch hex Battle Tiles that I made back in 2009. You can read about it HERE on the Profantasy forums.
For more information on the battle tiles click on the tags to other posts concerning Geomorphs.
If you end up using them please share pictures and if you tend to use them often and you need a new tile then please let me know and I’ll whip one up for you.
Last time I discussed, in my own disorganised way, my thoughts on 7″ hex tiles. Now I’m going to delve into the 4″ hex tile. As I’ve stated a few times before the thought first came to me when I saw the Tabletop Hex Terrain Toolkit on Kickstarter. This is going to be a great tool for making some wonderful terrain for both RPG’s and Wargames. However the scale is just slightly off for my tastes (as discussed here). I may eventually redesign the tool for use with proper one inch horizontal hexes, until then I am making four inch tiles to use for my GURPS Dungeon Fantasy games.
The 4″ Tiles can only support single and double width corridors (1 hex = 3′) compared to the three widths in the 7″ tiles. Also the number of connections is reduced dramatically to the four examples in the following image, compared to the 9 images for 7″ tiles.
Although there are fewer options I don’t think the four inch tiles are inferior to the seven inch. The four inch tiles will certainly allow for more dense dungeons, and with a bit of thought and planning will be able to offer some very complex designs. Also you can make any Hex Dungeon look just like any Square dungeon. All it takes is manipulating the width of the horizontal corridors. If the corridors are the same width they will not match up when a horizontal corridor attaches to a vertical corridor. The horizontal corridor will be too wide.
I can live with this slight alteration as it now gives me more options when designing. I can now have corridors that turn at 90° just like you would with a square tiled dungeon.
What I like from the example above is how at any given time the orientation of the dungeon can turn 60° giving the dungeon a more natural feel. If you’re digging a dungeon why would you limit yourself to a grid? Also once you add the double width corridors your increasing your options and complexity. I’ll be adding more as I have time.
I’ve got plans to make full 3D dungeons using the 4 inch tiles and plaster molds such as those you can get from Hirst Arts, Linka World, and 4bot Industries. The issue is I will have to make a lot of custom pieces and custom molds so I’m going to be shelving this project for the mean time.
I think switching from the 7″ to the 4″ tiles was the right choice for me. When I get time I will go ahead and place the 30+ 7″ colour tiles I’ve already made if anyone is interested in trying them out. I’ll do the same for the 4″ but not until I get a large amount ready.
- You can make dense dungeons without so many extra tiles
- Easier to store
- Can produce more random results
- Easier to use “Fog of War” effect
- Only single and double wide corridors, no triple
- No irregular/offset corridors
- Floor textures may not align properly
- Custom 3D parts
In my last post I gave a brief overview of how my different hex dungeon maps evolved. This time I just want to discuss briefly on some hex maps but mostly the 7 inch hex tile. There are two ways to place a hex onto a map. Vertical and Horizontal sometimes referred to Flat to Flat and Point to Point. Now if you are using your map for miniatures the standard movement is 1 inch for the base. If you want to the distance from top of your tile to the bottom of the tile to be 1 inch this means you have two different possible sizes for your hex. However most people would just stick with the 1 inch distance flat to flat as that will perfectly allow even miniatures with round bases to fit within the entirety of the hex. Not to mention that a 1 inch Vertical hex tile is the industry standard for miniature bases.
I’ve heard some people refer to them the opposite way but I view it as the direction of travel in a straight line via the flat edge. Very few games that I can recall use the Horizontal grid. I’ve mostly seen older wargames that use counters, Star Maps (although can use both), and probably most recognised in the gaming community Icosahedral World Maps. I’m sure I’m missing a few.
However if your playing with miniatures on a battle map you really want to have a facing edge. Also I play GURPS which uses Vertical Hexes if players want to use battle maps. So that narrowed my choices down to, well, one.
Now in my previous posts I’ve mentioned how I used hex grids on square mats and the problems that can lead to as you need duplicate maps for each directions as each square would have half hexes and quarter hexes. It really wasn’t ideal.
I did experiment with Flower Tiles. I liked Flower Tiles as they are interlocking but you would require a larger number of varied tiles to make a proper system and it was just too much. I wanted something simpler.
Then I came across the idea, after discussions with Andorax (a World Works Games forum user), to use Hex Tiles. This allowed me to rotate the hexes in any direction and have all the tiles line up. The only thing we disagreed on was whether to use Horizontal or Vertical. I prefer the Vertical so I went with that.
There is a great blog post by Phil Wright “Mapping with Master Hexes” where he goes into in depth detail about how to choose the proper tile size. I’d like to say I did the same thing but honestly I just got lucky. I wanted to fit a tile on a sheet of paper with as little waste so for A4 or US 8.5×11 that ended up being a 7″ Vertical Tile. I’ve made dozens of these tiles and even printed out a few on good quality photo paper. Most Wargames are done in 6 inch sections however that just won’t work with a 6 inch hex tile. As with a square tile the 6 inch hex tile has too many irregularities for it to be functional. 4″, 7″ are best. you could use 10″ and 13″ but that is starting to get a bit large for me. 5″ hexes would also be feasible but it personally did not suit me.
Now I refused to be confined to all my corridors turning at 60° and 120°. However because of the 120° angle of the outer edges it means that the corridors meet at a slant. If the walls are all the same, then the walls cutting across the angle wouldn’t match up with the walls that hit it flat on. So this means all horizontal, or cross cutting would be a better term, corridors have to be slightly smaller. I’m crap at maths, I’m a visual guy so I kept scaling until it looked right. It is roughly 13-15% difference in size depending on the width of the corridors.
First off I should clarify that in GURPS each hex is 3 feet. Which is about the area that a normal human would occupy. So with the seven inch tiles it allowed me to have 3′, 6′, and 9′ corridors and with the 7 inch tile I could off an array of options of how the corridors connect.
I also experimented on how to use a standard dungeon map and force it onto the 7 inch tiles. This takes away modularity but makes for some fun map tiles that only work for a specific map.
Pro’s and Con’s of the 7″ Tiles
- multiple corridor widths
- multiple connecting points
- able to make both large and small rooms
- quick to assemble
- Dense dungeons with small rooms require many special tiles that will contain a whole room plus many half or quarter rooms. This would require plenty of planning and tiles with specific use.
- tiles may reveal rooms which have not been discovered
- if full 3D can get heavy
However with my purchase of Kickstarter for Tabletop Hex Terrain I’ve started to think about moving to smaller 4 inch hex tiles. However not just flat tiles but full three dimensional dungeons. This idea was reinforced when the Hexomorfo System was released. Plus 4 inch tiles would allow me to fit the wargaming niche as well because I could build them in one foot sections. However 4 inch battle tiles is a discussion for another post.
Mapping with Master Hexes by Phil Wright. This is a great blog post and gets more indepth than I did for the actual reason for the size of my tiles.
If you read back through the blog you can see my slow (very slow) transition of how I make my geomorphs. I started with just making the rooms and corridors and cutting them out at the wall. Looks good, you can do a lot with it, however you need to make separate vertical and horizontal parts for each option. Not very efficient.
Then after several discussions with people I know, one of which was Andorax, from the World Works Games forums (now defunct). The idea of making the tiles Hexagonal in shape that way you can rotate them in any direction without the need to make Vertical and Horizontal versions for each tile.
I made the tiles 7 inches from flat side to flat side to reduce the paper waste. One of these hexes would fit on either A4 or US 8.5×11 sheet of paper. If your using high quality photo paper then you really don’t want to be throwing a bunch of it away. The other nice thing about the 7 inch tile was you could have single (3′), double, and triple width corridors giving you a varied dungeon. Now to connect the walls together when you’re running them at a 60° turn means that the horizontal corridor has to be slightly smaller for the walls to match up at the edge. This way you can place your 4 way cross roads and all four corridors will match up to the next tile no matter how you rotate them. Plus you then don’t have to be confined to just 60° turns as I’ve seen many people do.
I also played around with how to make 3D Hex Dungeons
These were overly complex but a good start. Unfortunately I no longer have the files for these. Then last November during my routine searches for Hex Maps and Hex Dungeons I found the Kickstarter for Tabletop Hex Terrain. You can read my thoughts about it in the blog post linked above. I now have the Hex jigs but I think I’m going to scale them up to get a true 1″ hex and have them laser cut. I can still use the original Hex Jigs for Battletech and Mechwarrior: Dark Age.
Then in December the Hexomorfo System came out using the same conclusions I was using (but only using vertical corridors not horizontal as well) but the smaller scaled 4″ tiles, a bit like the Hex Jig that I discussed in November. My only issue with the 4″ tiles is you can not have triple wide corridors without needing four hexes for the length of two that you would need for single or double wide. I had considered going to 6″ tiles but it would be bulky for the 3D version although easier to build using Hirst Arts bricks. However I’m going to have to custom make 1″ hex tiles for the Hirst Arts as Bruce doesn’t seem interested in making any.
So now I’m currently making tiles for the 4″ system and I’m hoping to get about 100-150 done before experimenting with the 3D tiles. I’ll keep posting updates when I reach them.
Some one asked if I could make a version of my Monster Cards for 6×4 Note Cards instead. I’m always happy to help if I have the time so here you go folks