After finally getting the Maneuver Cards done after about five years of working on them off and on I decided to get moving to the Spell Cards. Like the other cards they are a form that you can fill and print yourself. However since there are so many varieties of spells and what they are capable of doing I only made the Page field permanent. The rest of the cells can be entered by the user. The information panel looks just like the other cards but for the cover I opted for a spell book cover with each College having the same colour represented in GURPS Magic. I also added a symbol for each college.
The symbols are from Game-icons.net I’ve made a card for each college and one set of “Generic” Spell cards. Next up will be Psi cards, Path/Book, Ritual, Syntactic, Symbol, and Wild Magic. All but the Psi cards will probably have to have a different format for the information so they may take a little longer.You can view all the Spell Cards HERE
If you end up using them please send me pictures of your cards!
I’d like to share the 7 inch hex Battle Tiles that I made back in 2009. You can read about it HERE on the Profantasy forums.
For more information on the battle tiles click on the tags to other posts concerning Geomorphs.
If you end up using them please share pictures and if you tend to use them often and you need a new tile then please let me know and I’ll whip one up for you.
In my last post I gave a brief overview of how my different hex dungeon maps evolved. This time I just want to discuss briefly on some hex maps but mostly the 7 inch hex tile. There are two ways to place a hex onto a map. Vertical and Horizontal sometimes referred to Flat to Flat and Point to Point. Now if you are using your map for miniatures the standard movement is 1 inch for the base. If you want to the distance from top of your tile to the bottom of the tile to be 1 inch this means you have two different possible sizes for your hex. However most people would just stick with the 1 inch distance flat to flat as that will perfectly allow even miniatures with round bases to fit within the entirety of the hex. Not to mention that a 1 inch Vertical hex tile is the industry standard for miniature bases.
I’ve heard some people refer to them the opposite way but I view it as the direction of travel in a straight line via the flat edge. Very few games that I can recall use the Horizontal grid. I’ve mostly seen older wargames that use counters, Star Maps (although can use both), and probably most recognised in the gaming community Icosahedral World Maps. I’m sure I’m missing a few.
However if your playing with miniatures on a battle map you really want to have a facing edge. Also I play GURPS which uses Vertical Hexes if players want to use battle maps. So that narrowed my choices down to, well, one.
Now in my previous posts I’ve mentioned how I used hex grids on square mats and the problems that can lead to as you need duplicate maps for each directions as each square would have half hexes and quarter hexes. It really wasn’t ideal.
I did experiment with Flower Tiles. I liked Flower Tiles as they are interlocking but you would require a larger number of varied tiles to make a proper system and it was just too much. I wanted something simpler.
Then I came across the idea, after discussions with Andorax (a World Works Games forum user), to use Hex Tiles. This allowed me to rotate the hexes in any direction and have all the tiles line up. The only thing we disagreed on was whether to use Horizontal or Vertical. I prefer the Vertical so I went with that.
There is a great blog post by Phil Wright “Mapping with Master Hexes” where he goes into in depth detail about how to choose the proper tile size. I’d like to say I did the same thing but honestly I just got lucky. I wanted to fit a tile on a sheet of paper with as little waste so for A4 or US 8.5×11 that ended up being a 7″ Vertical Tile. I’ve made dozens of these tiles and even printed out a few on good quality photo paper. Most Wargames are done in 6 inch sections however that just won’t work with a 6 inch hex tile. As with a square tile the 6 inch hex tile has too many irregularities for it to be functional. 4″, 7″ are best. you could use 10″ and 13″ but that is starting to get a bit large for me. 5″ hexes would also be feasible but it personally did not suit me.
Now I refused to be confined to all my corridors turning at 60° and 120°. However because of the 120° angle of the outer edges it means that the corridors meet at a slant. If the walls are all the same, then the walls cutting across the angle wouldn’t match up with the walls that hit it flat on. So this means all horizontal, or cross cutting would be a better term, corridors have to be slightly smaller. I’m crap at maths, I’m a visual guy so I kept scaling until it looked right. It is roughly 13-15% difference in size depending on the width of the corridors.
First off I should clarify that in GURPS each hex is 3 feet. Which is about the area that a normal human would occupy. So with the seven inch tiles it allowed me to have 3′, 6′, and 9′ corridors and with the 7 inch tile I could off an array of options of how the corridors connect.
I also experimented on how to use a standard dungeon map and force it onto the 7 inch tiles. This takes away modularity but makes for some fun map tiles that only work for a specific map.
Pro’s and Con’s of the 7″ Tiles
- multiple corridor widths
- multiple connecting points
- able to make both large and small rooms
- quick to assemble
- Dense dungeons with small rooms require many special tiles that will contain a whole room plus many half or quarter rooms. This would require plenty of planning and tiles with specific use.
- tiles may reveal rooms which have not been discovered
- if full 3D can get heavy
However with my purchase of Kickstarter for Tabletop Hex Terrain I’ve started to think about moving to smaller 4 inch hex tiles. However not just flat tiles but full three dimensional dungeons. This idea was reinforced when the Hexomorfo System was released. Plus 4 inch tiles would allow me to fit the wargaming niche as well because I could build them in one foot sections. However 4 inch battle tiles is a discussion for another post.
Mapping with Master Hexes by Phil Wright. This is a great blog post and gets more indepth than I did for the actual reason for the size of my tiles.
If you read back through the blog you can see my slow (very slow) transition of how I make my geomorphs. I started with just making the rooms and corridors and cutting them out at the wall. Looks good, you can do a lot with it, however you need to make separate vertical and horizontal parts for each option. Not very efficient.
Then after several discussions with people I know, one of which was Andorax, from the World Works Games forums (now defunct). The idea of making the tiles Hexagonal in shape that way you can rotate them in any direction without the need to make Vertical and Horizontal versions for each tile.
I made the tiles 7 inches from flat side to flat side to reduce the paper waste. One of these hexes would fit on either A4 or US 8.5×11 sheet of paper. If your using high quality photo paper then you really don’t want to be throwing a bunch of it away. The other nice thing about the 7 inch tile was you could have single (3′), double, and triple width corridors giving you a varied dungeon. Now to connect the walls together when you’re running them at a 60° turn means that the horizontal corridor has to be slightly smaller for the walls to match up at the edge. This way you can place your 4 way cross roads and all four corridors will match up to the next tile no matter how you rotate them. Plus you then don’t have to be confined to just 60° turns as I’ve seen many people do.
I also played around with how to make 3D Hex Dungeons
These were overly complex but a good start. Unfortunately I no longer have the files for these. Then last November during my routine searches for Hex Maps and Hex Dungeons I found the Kickstarter for Tabletop Hex Terrain. You can read my thoughts about it in the blog post linked above. I now have the Hex jigs but I think I’m going to scale them up to get a true 1″ hex and have them laser cut. I can still use the original Hex Jigs for Battletech and Mechwarrior: Dark Age.
Then in December the Hexomorfo System came out using the same conclusions I was using (but only using vertical corridors not horizontal as well) but the smaller scaled 4″ tiles, a bit like the Hex Jig that I discussed in November. My only issue with the 4″ tiles is you can not have triple wide corridors without needing four hexes for the length of two that you would need for single or double wide. I had considered going to 6″ tiles but it would be bulky for the 3D version although easier to build using Hirst Arts bricks. However I’m going to have to custom make 1″ hex tiles for the Hirst Arts as Bruce doesn’t seem interested in making any.
So now I’m currently making tiles for the 4″ system and I’m hoping to get about 100-150 done before experimenting with the 3D tiles. I’ll keep posting updates when I reach them.
Some one asked if I could make a version of my Monster Cards for 6×4 Note Cards instead. I’m always happy to help if I have the time so here you go folks
I’ve created a form based PDF for monsters and NPC’s to make on playing cards. Just fill, print, cut, glue and fold and you will have yourself a collection of Monsters at your disposal in no time at all!
I’ve also made them with workable dials for Hit Points and Fatigue Points and I will have a formatted version up soon with instructions (I hope).
I’ve redesigned the cards to Bridge Size (2.25×3.5 inches (56×87 mm)) and I have ordered 200 blank Bridge cards to use in my printer. I’ve asked the GURPS community on Google+ to make any suggestions and to add any Maneuvers not covered in the current GURPS Combat Cards. I’m still working on the Monster cards and I’m unsure if to actually use them or stick with 4×6 note cards.
I thought I would share with you my Kitbash of the Hit Location wheel for World Works Games Roll Arena. I took this wheel here…
This blog is not only about GURPS Mega Dungeons but other products that can be used with GURPS. One of those has just been released today. World Works Games: Roll Arena is a fun little game aid that is system generic and has a lot of possibilities for use with GURPS.
I’ve had the time to build my own Roll Arena and it comes with two dice drawers and one card drawer. The cards come with numbers 1-8 (each number has a symbol on them) these match with one of the arena inserts allowing for random results with your dice roll. They also come with four symbols; a Sword, Skull, Dove, and Shield. Although not the most perfect symbols for use with GURPS I have used them to replace the free GURPS 4e Combat Cards by using the sword for all attacks ( i.e.: Move & Attack, All-Out Attack), the skull for afflicted conditions (i.e.: Surprised, HP = 0 or less, Stun), the dove for passive actions (i.e.: Evaluate, Ready, Aim, Do Nothing) and the shield for defensive actions (Dodge, Parry, All-out Defence). The numbered cards 1-8 could be used for random events or you could just use them for spells or combat manoeuvres that your characters use a lot. The thing is these pdf’s take advantage of Adobe’s form option so you are able to put your own text on the cards! If the product does well there will be additional card styles offered in the future. Lets hope so!
I’m going to use photoshop on that random hit location to add a spot for eyes, neck, skull, and groin. It is a neat way to allow a random hit location! So for $6.50 USD (not including the cost of ink and cardstock) this is a nice way of adding some extra flavour to your games!
I understand that props are not for everyone but I tend to like to use them in my games.